It was Thursday July 15th and all the girls arrived on the same night just a few hours apart. Cara coming from Washington, Melissa and Anne coming from Greece. I expected Cara to be completely wiped out and jet lagged and thought we’d have to take her back to the apartment then go back to the airport to pick up Melissa and Anne. Cara’s flight was a little delayed and Mark and I were just hanging around the airport. Cara was one of the first ones off the plane. I was so excited to see her. She said, “Mom, I was on business class from London to Jordan!” I booked the flight, but do not remember booking anything for business class. I think she was just lucky enough to be bumped up! She said she slept most of the flight and she was feeling fine. So we all waited for Melissa and Anne-which was only about 45 minutes.
Melissa and Anne got off and again we were so excited to see them. I couldn’t believe we had 2 of our 3 girls with us and Anne, who we adopted as a 4th daughter! She fit in very well!
Melissa and Anne were pretty hungry so when we got back we had some hummus and pastries and cheese and crackers. It was about 2am by the time we all got to bed.
I had to plan our sightseeing around Anne since she was leaving to go back to Tiblisi, Georgia on Tuesday July 20th at 6:30am. I felt it important to get the major sights in – Petra and the Dead Sea. So, we headed south to Petra the next day. I let the girls sleep in. Petra is about 3 hours from Amman and we had planned 2 nights in Petra. We left around noon. Mark wanted to take the Dead Sea Highway to Petra because he said it was much more pleasant a trip than to drive through the Desert Highway which is just….desert…and boring.
We stopped at Lot’s Cave. Yep, Lot….from the bible. Remember his wife turned into a pillar of salt because she turned back to see Sodom destroyed? It is said that her pillar is in Wadi Mujib-a nature reserve not far from Lot’s cave. We followed the signs to Lot’s cave and got out of the car to discover it was about 100+degrees with no breeze – just stifling hot! To get to the cave you have to walk UP many many steps. The entrance to the steps has a sign that says, “Sight closed for restoration. No visiting without an escort”.
It is said that that sign has been there forever! Some gentleman saw us and “escorted” us without us asking. It’s ok, he was very sweet.
Oh, the steps….the heat…the steps……We made it up to the cave. There had been a church built there and you have to climb through a gate to get to the cave. It has a beautiful view. It’s just a little place, but it’s historical and now we can say we’ve been to Lot’s Cave.
Oh, the steps….the heat…the steps……We made it up to the cave. There had been a church built there and you have to climb through a gate to get to the cave. It has a beautiful view. It’s just a little place, but it’s historical and now we can say we’ve been to Lot’s Cave.
Back on the road headed south, but we have to cross over the mountains to get to Petra. I had my little tour book and I use the map in that to get me around the country of Jordan. So we follow signs to the main city near Petra. It was quite a spectacular drive. The land is very dry and beige and the terrain is very rugged with incredible mountains. Cara had decided that these weren’t actually “mountains” since they look more like gigundo rocks. Anne sort of agreed. But their description of the “mountains” was going to change quickly. Driving through this land you notice that no one is around. There is very little greenery- just a few scattered evergreens that are indigenous to the desert. There is no water, no people and very few cars. You travel the roads alone. Cara described it as “foreboding” and it was such an accurate description.
After a lot of twists and turns we found the road to Petra. We stopped at the rock where Moses is said to have hit it with his staff and made water come out. Cara and I both wonder how they know that these are the places of these historical events. But I suspect that there has been a lot of investigation as to the location of these places. Finally approaching Petra. The 3 hour trip took about 4+ hours with the stops at Lot’s cave and Moses’ Rock. We checked into the Crowne Plaza Hotel, just a short walking distance from the entrance to Petra. We changed and went into the pool and watched the sunset. We had a fairly crappy dinner buffet at the hotel, but we agreed that we were all a little too tired to go to a nicer restaurant in town.
We got up early the next morning to get ourselves into Petra by 9am. It is the summer and the sun is very hot in the desert so the earlier the better.
Mark and I had been to Petra before when we came here in January 09. But we had only been there for about 3 hours and just walked along the main road. I had done some reading on Petra and knew that there was a lot more to see. If you’ve ever seen “Indiana Jones and the Last Crusade” you have seen a part of Petra. It is the last seen when Indy and his father find the temple where the challis from the last supper is hidden. That “temple” that is carved out of the side of a mountain is the “Treasury Building” in Petra. It is the first thing you see after you walk through the siq.
The Siq is a long dark narrow gorge that you must walk through to get to the city of Petra and the Treasury building. The Siq is about 1.2Km long and is a steady downhill walk. Then as you come to the end of the Siq, the Treasury building starts peaking through and then as you leave the Siq everything just opens up. I had tried to explain this to the girls before we got there, but words just don’t work well, it’s something you have to see to experience. So, as we were walking to the end of the Siq, Anne who was up ahead came running back to me with this delightful smile and wonderment on her face and said, “I see the Treasury!” Then ran forward to Melissa and Cara as the world of the Nabateans opened up to them.
We decided that we would hike our way up to the High Sacrificial Sight. We found the stairs that led the way UP. Slowly but surely we climbed to the high spot. It was getting hot outside and so we tried to stay in the shade of the mountain as much as possible. When we made it to the top the view was breathtaking. Petra lay below and you could see for miles. Anne sat down and enjoyed the peaceful view.
Melissa made a friend with a little girl whose name escapes me. Many of the local children are around selling items to the tourists. But this little girl was different. She didn’t try and sell anything. She befriended Melissa and gave her 2 packs of post cards. She talked with Melissa about the locals, their homes and about herself. Melissa decided she would reward this young bright girl and give her 5 JD which is way more than she would have gotten if she just sold the postcards to Melissa. Melissa says she has a soft spot for bright young girls.
We spent some time at the top, drank some water, and enjoyed the peace and the beauty.
Then we found another way down, like taking the back roads to a village. It was a wonderful adventure, but it wasn’t over. It was around 1 or 2 pm and we stopped at the little cafĂ©. We got some sodas and water and I had granola bars and nuts with us and that’s what we ate. It wasn’t a lot, but it was so hot and we had so much walking in that it was just the right amount of food. The girls decided they wanted to go to the Monastery. We knew that it was another climb up, but we had no idea that it was over 800 steps UP until we started the ascent. Remember we are now doing this in midday with the sun beating down. I will tell you that this was a very difficult climb. I had to stop very often and after a while I started to feel very poorly. Mark and the girls were great and very patient. They would wait with me as I would stop in a shaded area and drink what cold water we had left. About 2/3’s of the way up there was a gift shop/drink stop and Cara got me some Gatorade and that made all the difference in the world. We sat in the shade and I regained my strength and we continued our climb UP. The Monastery was beautiful. Although, in honesty, the Treasury was more intricately designed and the High Sacrificial Sight had more of a view. Having said that, there was a place you could climb to and it said it was the best view in Petra. Mark and I decided we were finished climbing and the girls went to the top to get the view. Mark and I rested and he had a tea with mint (a favorite drink around here).
We headed back down and out of Petra. Now remember, walking in the Siq was a steady downhill walk, so now it was a steady uphill walk. Mark and I were just exhausted and took it slow. I think he was happy I was the one who claimed to need the break this way he didn’t have to admit he felt the same way. The girls were ahead of us and towards the end I told them to go ahead. We had decided to have drinks and dinner at “The Cave” which is just at the entrance/exit of Petra. They made a little bar/restaurant inside a cave and it’s really cool! However, the chairs outside in the shade were much more comfortable and that’s where we sat.
What I have not mentioned was this was July 17th, Megan and Cara’s birthday. It was the first time in their lives that they were separated for their birthday; so needless to say, we were really missing Megan-especially Cara. We ordered a round of beer and on rather empty stomachs and aching muscles and fatigued bodies and blistered feet, one glass was enough to make us very happy. Cara and Mark had a second glass before dinner arrived!! I told the waiter that it was Cara’s birthday and he asked if she wanted a cake. I said yes and asked him if he had a candle to put in it. He said he did. A little while later he came out with a piece of cake with a tea light in it!! It was hilarious. It was the only time I didn’t have my camera out, so no picture of this unique birthday cake! It was a spectacular day and Cara was very happy to spend her birthday this way.
The next day we headed northward toward the Dead Sea. We stopped at Karak Castle. It was a crusader castle and a major stopping point along the trade route. We had a guide who spoke very little English. He showed us where people were hanged. He took me by the arm, brought me to the hanging spot and put his arm around my neck to show what type of place this was. It was very weird! It was interesting enough but nothing compared to Petra.
From Karak we went to the Kempinski Resort at the Dead Sea. Mark and I have been there many times before. His project has put on many a workshop there and of course Mark and I have to go along.
The girls were just thrilled to visit the lowest point on earth – the Dead Sea. They got their suits on and we took them to the water. It’s very weird going into the Dead Sea. You just don’t know what to expect. So, with some trepidation they slowly walked in. The beach is very rocky and hard on your feet. When they were about 12-14” deep in the water I told them to turn around and just sit in the water. They said that they were afraid their butt would hit the ground, but I reassured them that that was not going to happen. They did as instructed and were amazed that they just floated as they sat. Again, it’s one of those things that words don’t work well for and you have to experience it.
The next day we checked out of the hotel and went to the Baptism sight of Jesus. It was my third time there. Each time I go there I am more disappointed and saddened because the Jordan River has dried up so much that it’s just a hole in the ground that has some water in it. None the less, it was one more historical biblical sight the girls got to see.
Back to Amman. We scheduled a dinner at a wonderful Lebanese Restaurant with Christina, Leo and Alison. It was Anne’s last night and we needed to make sure she got some good Middle Eastern food. It was a wonderful time.
Anne’s flight was at 6:30 am which meant she had to leave by about 4am. I asked her if it would be ok if we got a cab to take her to the airport and she was very agreeable to that. Thank God!! Melissa and I got up and saw her off and went back to bed.
We had decided we would take that day and rest. We took it easy and went to the grocery store, the local bakery and spice market and fruit/vegetable market. Just so they could have a taste of the “life” of Jordan. I made a nice spaghetti dinner and we played Cranium. We had a lot of fun!